Hermes'
autumn windows are a color feast for the eyes, and even though the
decoration and black and white backdrop photographs are the same as in
the summer windows, every display feels fresh and gives wonderful
inspiration. The brighter colors are perfect for the transition between
late summer and early autumn days, whereas the burnt orange, muted
caramel and black combinations make you look forward to crisp and cool
autumn days, and to the sound of autumn leaves crunching below your feet
on countrywalks.
Beautiful autumnal colors? Yes, most definitely. Artful, engaging window design? In my humble opinion, sadly no.
ReplyDeleteThe windows lack imagination and whimsy and that touch of fantasy that was always such a highpoint of Ms. Menchari's craft. I'm sure that following in her footsteps must be daunting, maybe even terrifying. I certainly wouldn't want to be that poor soul, but after several years of installations, I would have thought that the new designer would have found his or her footing or artistic vision or whatever it is by now, and that the spark would have been reignited.
These windows are just run-of-the-mill and in some instances way too busy - too many bracelets and necklaces and scarves and wallets and agendas and perfume bottles, etc. tumbling sloppily out of a Birkin or suitcase. Yes, there's abundance displayed for sure, but in places it turns into a confusing, distracting "stew" - a luxurious stew for sure but a stew nonetheless.
For me, the only saving grace is the beauty of the goods displayed, but unfortunately, the windows themselves are no longer art or fantastical escapes from the commonplace. They've become, in a word, ordinary.
Sorry . . .you may all start hurtling rocks at my head now dear Swans,
Ducking,
Jerrine
PS - This critique in no way diminishes your photographic skills, MT. The photos are as stunning as always, and I thank you for taking the time to share them with us.
Dearest Jerrine, - sadly, I have to completely agree with you.
ReplyDeleteWhile the goods were amazing and the color schemes beautiful and inspriational, the arrangements were not. You described it perfectly above and I have nothing to add, except that it was not easy to take the pictures this time.
I never saw the same decoration/backdrop being used twice.. it makes me think that perhaps there was some kind of emergency involved?
It will be interesting how the winter windows turn out.. but whatever happens, we can count on the fact that there'll be beautiful products in them.
PS. I was thinking a while ago to pay hommage to Leïla Menchari on my (temporarily dormant) IG account and to post, say every Monday (what could be better start into the new week!), a picture of her amazing displays. What do you think? I could do this for years, I have literally thousands of pics!
Agree about the windows. Too busy. But the colours are lovely. Yes..yes, please..to that idea for your IG account.
DeleteYes, those palm trees kind of threw me, too, MT. I've never seen H repeat a window backdrop before, so I think you're correct - something must have been damaged at the last minute or didn't arrive on time, and they had to punt with palms, and then in an attempt to make it cohesive, someone threw in some dead palm branches - huh? Well, it didn't work. There's a major disconnect between the black and white graphics and all that rich color and, shall we say, exuberance of accessories (I'm trying to be nice here!).
DeleteI think your Monday morning homage to the LM windows would be wonderful and most welcome . . . if you have the time. I vote yes!
Don't you wonder if Ms. Menchari walks by to inspect the FSH windows and her successor's work? I wonder if she cringes or smugly thinks to herself . . . they'll never be able to replace me. She'd be right; they won't.
Best,
Jerrine
I LOVE this idea! I agree with you and Jerrine that these windows are a little ordinary and busy--but the products are amazing. The camel bag just calls out to my soul! It would be interesting and also fun to see Ms. Menchari's beautiful designs, especially for those of us not in the know. As you said, what better way to start the week?!
DeleteHappy Tuesday--
Greta
Thank you Susan for seconding the IG idea! It should be fun :)
DeleteI've been wondering many times if Ms Menchari checks on the windows, my dear Jerrine. And yes, it is impossible to replace her. Hope one day H will find someone who keeps us spellbound with a different kind of magic!
DeleteI had to go back and search for your camel bag under all the accessories, Greta. Yes, it's lovely, and you should have it:).
DeleteI've also figured out where all the lovely charnière bracelets have vanished to. They're all in the darn windows at FSH and, therefore, unobtainable by mere mortals, aka customers.
Best,
Jerrine
Thanks so much, dear Jerrine, to express what I have felt when I - for the first time- could eye the all-so-famous windows myself this year: total disappointment! Maybe I had very high hopes, having marvelled at dear MT's wonderfully captured pictures of Menchari's window displays. But- I have to be honest - I have been completely disappointed with the whole AW Collection so far, nothing has lifted me off my feet. Many scarves have similar colourways, which are even not so different from last winter's...or just not to my liking at all. At the same time, I find it equally frustrating that some very popular leather colours are simply not available at all. Maybe the ever-rising star has reached its zenith? So here's to past success and to a Monday-Menchari-Memory-Day! But, dearest MaiTai, your pictures and way of issuing them is as fabulous as ever! Thanks!
DeleteP.S. As Hermès leaves me rather cold at the moment- I'd love to see another of your capsule wardrobe sheets:) they have a special beauty and style!
Katja
I'm with Katja on all of this--Monday-Menchari-Memory Day and a new capsule wardrobe sheet. She's so smart, that Katja!
DeleteBut I'd like to add to this--MaiTai, you have so many photos and so much history and knowledge stored in your head...I think it's time for you to write a beautiful, colorful, memorable coffee table book. It's for those of us who haven't seen the famous windows in person, and those who have and want to relive them. It's for those of us who love the colors and textures and want to make them a part of our everyday. It's definitely something to think about!
Greta
Awwwww, sweet Katja, I'm sorry that Hermès has disappointed you this season. I've been somewhat underwhelmed myself, especially by the scarf offerings. Usually I lust for at least half a dozen. This year? There was only one I couldn't live without - the Dallet big cats.
DeleteHermès is one of the most intriguing and enviably luxurious companies in business today. Unfortunately, it is also one of the most frustrating to buy from. There is a "cloak of mystery" surrounding Hermès, and that's just the way they want it. They yearn to compete as a global brand, but they remain stubbornly steadfast in their ways. It is Hermès' way or the highway, as we like to say here in the US.
But what magic they create. Their insistence on quality and timeless techniques are truly enviable and sadly almost non-existent in a mass-produced world. However, as I said above, they can be totally, TEAR-OUT-YOUR-HAIR FRUSTRATING.
You mentioned the availability, or I should say, non-availability of leather colors. I've run into that myself. You get your mind set on a particular color that you've seen in the past, and you start to imagine carrying that bag in that beautiful color. You inquire at your boutique. Could I order a Kelly in Noisette or Raisin or Rouge Garrance? No madame; that color is being rested. Huh? What? Did Raisin have a breakdown; is it exhausted and now has to take a nap?
It's simply H's way of retiring and introducing new colors to keep the line fresh, and of course, they also have to depend on what their leather suppliers can produce for them. They will always carry the stock colors - black, gold, Rouge H, but the "special" colors are always a big if, and they're, of course, seasonal, as well. However, take heart. What may be resting today will probably be re-introduced in future seasons . . . with a new name - just to keep us on our toes, of course.
The windows are a different matter. I don't think they'll ever find a talent like Ms. Menchari, but to be fair, she was with Hermès for decades, and she evolved with them and also had carte blanche from Mr. Dumas as far as resources and money. H. produced magical bags in fabulous exotics just for her window displays, as well as other fantasy objects. They weren't made to be sold, only to garnish Ms. Menchari's latest fantasy. Sadly, all that has changed, and in a way, I suppose it had to. (But the bags you see are still produced only for the windows and can't be sold - they normally aren't lined or fully finished on the interior.)
But, you'll be able to enjoy the magic when our wonderful Chief Swan starts up her Monday with Menchari Instagram posts. I certainly look forward to them. They will restore your faith. And, if you can find a copy of "Les Vitrines Hermès: Contes Nomades de Leila Menchari": (The Shop Windows Of Hermès: Tales of a Wanderer), grab it. It's a gorgeous book and was available in both French and English versions. Unfortunately, it's out of print. Copies do come up on Amazon and eBay from time to time . . . for a price, a big price!
So, sit back and prepare to be amazed come Monday. And, maybe just take a break from Hermès for a bit (you can rest as some of the leather colors are doing). I'm sure that in a season or two, your faith will be restored, and your wallet will be pleading for mercy.
Best to you,
Jerrine
I agree, Greta. A big fat, luscious coffee table book would be wonderful, wouldn't it. Our girl could do it for sure!
DeleteBut, the problem is that I'm not sure Hermès would let her do it. I think they have probably copyrighted the very windows themselves, and therefore, any images taken of them. They are very adept at copyrighting anything and everything.
Maybe we should make some inquiries just to see . . .
Hugs,
Jerrine
Dearest Jerrine,
DeleteYour lovely, long comment made my day- and I made my peace with Hermès for the time being. You are right about the quality - but it was Hermès itself who destroyed my imaginations about handicraft...they posted a short video about their fabrication of silk scarves on their Instagram Account just a few weeks ago- and to me, that did look very much like mass production. It has to be, of course, with a growing number of people all over the world entering the luxury goods sector. The process of designing a scarf, and the taste you need to create manifold CWs, are not to be diminished, not to forget the hand sown hems...but that video spoilt it a little for me. Better not watch it!
You mentioned that wonderful book before and I did check on Amazon and eBay- just to sit back with my jaw dropped about the price:((( Maybe it is time for a little break - ohhhh- there are lots of older designs that I'd still love to get!!! - and I fear what will happen on Monday: lots of beautiful items to dream of, but none of them available. Well, that's the magic spell that Hermès utilises to make us all addicted!
Thanks for your compassion, my sisters in crime,
Katja
Yes, Katja, best not to watch that video. I haven't! I suppose some degree of mass production is inevitable, but I still hate to see it happen with Hermès.
DeleteI, too, love the older classic scarf designs, which H. seems to be getting away from in their pursuit of a younger market. I've found most of my lovely vintage designs on eBay through the years, and I've found that ebay.fr is still somewhat of a goldmine for the vintages in comparison to the US version.
I knew that the Menchari book had definitely appreciated in value, but I had no idea of how much until, like you, I looked on Amazon. Wow, one copy is listed for $1,795, and I found one that topped even that on eBay - something like $2,700. Holy Menchari!
I was lucky enough to purchase my copy when the boutiques were carrying it the year it was published, but even then, it was in high demand - I got the last copy in my store.
Gee, wouldn't you think H. would re-issue it? They'd sell them by the thousands. But, we're talking about H here:).
Best,
Jerrine
Dearest Greta and Katja, thanks so much for the lovely comments! Jerrine has come back so perfectly on everything, so there is little to add.. except that new style sheets are coming soon. Have a wonderful rest of the week, darling swans!
DeleteMT, yes, please pretty please post photos of Ms. Menchari's wonderful displays... Alas, I no longer spend as much time in Paris as in the past and the local Hermes outpost here has closed so your blogs and photos help to keep the flame alive. Looking forward to continued enjoyment of your posts.
ReplyDeleteJoanne
So happy that you like the 'Mondays with Leïla' idea, many thanks dear Joanne! It's so nice to know that my pics help close the gap the closure of your local H left. Hope to see you next Monday on IG!
DeleteDearest MT,
ReplyDeleteI have a problem with my comments, I posted one around mid-day and it got lost (but it could also be that I’m starting to be messy and/or I don’t know what I’m doing…. don’t feel that old but maybe I am, I apologize dear Swans if the first comment is edited by the time I’m writing this one), anyway I thought about something else so I share it with you ;-)
Antoine Platteau (previously a movie decorator) is in charge since two years for H windows, he said « Elles ne sont pas faites pour vendre mais pour faire rêver les passants » « the windows are not made for selling but to make walkers dreaming ».
I’m really sorry but I am not dreaming anymore since Ms. Menchari left…and the first impression I got when I saw your autumn windows’pictures dearest MT is that everything was in front row in order to make a quick shopping list.
Have a nice week ahead ladies,
Catherine
PS : in my previous comment I was asking Jerrine to put me on the waiting list of her first readers (I will buy the book of course!) if she was planning one day to write a book. But maybe she already did and nobody told me!
AND I prefer not to read again what I wrote because I’m sure it looks terribly like I drank too much champagne but I didn’t!!!
To quote one of my favorite chefs, the late and much missed Julia Child, "whatever happens in the kitchen, never apologize." Catherine, it was certainly not you; it was the screwy internet's fault. On a daily basis, I blame at least six mishaps on internet purgatory, and I always get away with it!:)
DeleteWell, well, well, a movie set decorator, huh? That explains it. Not to be unkind, but I think Mr. Platteau has, well, plateaued. His intentions seemed to be on track, but his execution? Nah, not even close. I suggest that he borrow the Menchari book from H's archives and spend a few weeks studying it. Then just copy, copy, copy, Mr. Platteau. We'll excuse the transgression.
No book yet, Catherine, but how I would love to write one some day. If I do, you'll be the first to receive an autographed copy, gratis, of course.
Perhaps, I should start with a children's book based on the life and adventures of Le Petit Chat de Fusée, Norton.
Love,
Jerrine
Jerrine,
DeleteOh I really hope you’ll write a book one day, let me know when you’ll start your future best seller and I’ll send you a stock of macarons and praliné chocolate bars, you’ll need support ! I feel so honored and from now on I’ll wait for my personal copy, whatever you’ll be writing ;-)
Fabulous Julia, … I loved the movie Julie & Julia with my favorite actress, the beautiful and talented Meryl Streep.
Goodnight and love from the rocket!
C.
You have a deal, Catherine. I will write for chocolate!
DeleteI had the great good fortune to meet Julia just a few years before she died - an amazing woman (very, very tall!) with a huge personality and a huge talent. She also swore like a sailor!
Love to you and N,
Jerrine
PS - I agree with you regarding Ms. Streep. She's wonderful, and I'm lucky to share a birthday and birth year with her. Now, if she'd just share her talent . . . and her fortune.
AH ah! She swore like a sailor? I'm not surprised :))) In French we say "jurer comme un charretier". You don't need her talent, a fairy already tilted on your baby cot my dearest Jerrine!
DeleteLove
C.
Awwww, Catherine, smooch . . . smooch. You're so kind, and I love your expressions.
DeleteYes, Julia was very earthy and quite salty but very delightful. I met her in New York at the first James Beard Foundation awards dinner many years ago. My boss at the time owned a winery in New York, and they were serving his wine at the dinner. This guy is German and was extremely easy on the eyes and with his rather devastating accent he was just like catnip to a kitten. The ladies couldn't keep their paws off him!
Julia got one look at him and insisted that he sit down beside her. I was just excess "baggage," but for once I was happy to be with the most gorgeous man in the room, as I got to meet my culinary idol.
And, I got to meet her again here in Atlanta. A friend of a friend just happened to be her beloved nephew. I was lucky!
Love,
Jerrine
PS - I'd still like to share Meryl's fortune. I'd give you a split, too.
Dearest chère Catherine, - thanks so much for sharing the info about Mr Platteau. His quote would have rang true had it been coming from LM...but, I have never seen so much real merchandise in the windows since he took over! Bises
DeleteJerrine I nearly fell ou my chair when reading your comment, you crack me up. I'll buy any book you write, regardless of the topic. A crate of chocolate is on its way! Much love x
PS. Love Julia Child, love Merryl Streep.
And I vote yes for Mondays with Leila!
ReplyDeleteC.
Yay!
DeleteMondays with LM sounds like a great idea! Such beautiful magic in all she touched!
ReplyDeleteMy local H gifted me years ago with The Tales Of A Wanderer book about her. Lucky to have along with your beautiful pics!
Yes,these windows are not up to standard in my opinion! Perhaps Hermes will find inspiration from their own book! Fingers crossed! Mwahs, T xx
Our Monday club is growing, yay! What a wonderful gift to receive from your local H, so lucky! I bought my copy in 2008, for 100 EUR (and it came in an orange box!) Wish I got a few more copies.. Biggest mwahs xx
DeleteThose pics really do show what all the fuss is about. I only know 2nd hand of Hermes superior quality but see it in how everything drapes. The colors are exquisite, perfectly matched, and in those shades most difficult to get right...especially on lighter complexion gals but the Magnificent MaiTai has demonstrated time and time again how to do it.
ReplyDeleteAlas, I was hoping for a new selfie?
So happy you enjoyed the pics and yes, no one does color better than Hermes! The next selfies are coming soon :)
DeleteChiming in to say yes, please post photos of Ms. Menchari's artful window displays from years past!
ReplyDeleteThank you for casting your vote Stefanie! The first pic is up :)
DeleteI have nothing to add to this terrific thread except "yes, me too -- what y'all said!" Something to look forward to on Mondays -- thanks, dear MT!
ReplyDeleteWarm aloha to all,
Fifi
Looking forward to seeing you on IG on Mondays, dearest Fifi! Have a lovely week xx
DeleteThese windows are about 100% better than the ones currently on display at the Toronto Hermes shop. I had to walk back the other day as I was convinced I'd missed it entirely. Two large windows - one featuring some very boring menswear - one featuring one of the most bizarre, asymmetrical white dress with what appeared to be random metal studs all over it! Not a bit of colour - not a purse or a scarf or an accessory in sight! I have no idea WHAT they were thinking!
ReplyDeleteOh Margie, the Toronto displays do sound bleak. What indeed were they thinking! Now that scarf weather has arrived, all we want to see are scarves and shawls..
DeleteWill remember your comment when taking pictures of new windows next time!
BEAUTIFUL WINDOWS BEAUTIFUL HERMES.......the riding boots SPEAK to ME!
ReplyDeleteI know I need to get back at YOU with scarf ring decision!!
DON'T GIVE UP ON ME!
XX
First time that I've seen these boots with gold hardware! Love them too xx
DeleteDearest Mai Tai,
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing those beautiful windows with Fall's amazing colours. I would also like to see Ms. Menchari's stunning windowdisplays again and look forward to next Monday.Have a lovely and relaxing weekend dear friend. Big hug, Manuela xx
The colors blew me away too, aren't they just such a wonderful inspiration for autumn, my dearest Manuela! Looking foward to seeing on Monday on IG, and have a most wonderful week too. Much love xx
DeleteTo you too darling, M xx
DeleteTrès Chère Dearest MaiTai,
ReplyDeleteSo happy to see your first IG hommage to Leïla Menchari. I know we shouldn't compare, I know we shouldn't say "it was better before" but....
Thanks for sharing with us your treasures.
Mwahs,
Catherine
My dearest chère Catherine, - so happy you enjoyed the first installment of 'Mondays with Leïla'. See you there lundi prochaine! Bises
DeleteOh... it looks very beautiful. Truly, painted windows, bags color combination and backdrop photographs looks superb.
ReplyDeleteReally feel fresh :)